Soldering the Boards
Use solder that does not leave a large amount of rosin on the board. Using too much rosin will leave the board a dull color. With proper solder, your joints will be a bright silver color when finished.
The best solder to use is silver solder available in a small roll (1.5 oz.) from Radio Shack, part no. 64-013 E. The solder is .022 inch diameter with a 62/36/2 mix. It is labeled "High-Tech Rosin-Core Silver-Bearing Solder" with a red and white label. One roll should solder the receiver.
Regular lead solder that works well is 63/37 alloy sized .032 inch, 1.0mm, or 0.8mm rosin core.
When inserting the parts on the board, do not clip the leads until after they are soldered. Bend the leads at a 45 to 55 degree angle on the bottom side of the PCB to hold the parts on the top side against the PCB.
Double check your soldering by flicking the leads to see if you can get them to "ring". A unsoldered lead will not "ring" and feel loose when touched.
Clip the leads slightly above the solder. Do not cut into the solder.
Point the board away from your eyes when clipping the leads. They fly with considerable force from the board. Best to have the board over a large trash can to prevent them from flying all over the work room.
Another technique is to hold the long resistor leads with your finger when cutting. For shorter pieces, place your finger on top of the leads when cutting; they will fall on top of the board after being cut. A light touch is all that is needed, be careful not to poke or cut your finger.
Before You Start
Please keep in mind that 90% of the active devices in this kit are static sensitive devices.
Protecting Static Sensitive Devices
The highest risk situations are living in a very dry environment (or a day with very low humidity), and wearing rubber sole shoes with carpet on the floor.
If you walk across the floor of your work room and get a static discharge when you touch the door knob to your work room, have a ground lead running across the front of your work table to ground yourself before working on the receiver.
At the very least, have a ground lead handy to give a quick touch when sitting down to work. You will be instructed to touch the ground lead before inserting any static sensitive devices.
Checking Your Soldering Iron
Check the ground on your soldering gun by putting an LED between the tip of the soldering gun (when turned on) and the ground you are using. Polarity does not matter nor do you need a resistor in series with the LED.
If it lights, you do not have your soldering iron grounded properly. If you are not sure, do the test in dim/no light.
If this test blows the LED, you could be in danger of a very nasty shock. Fix this problem before building anything! Two wire electrical systems, with no third ground wire (two prongs only), is the most likely situation where this problem will occur.
The receiver is most susceptible to the above problem after it is built and connected to an antenna that has a proper ground.
The soldering gun will put 120VAC (or 230VAC) on the trace you solder and travel to the ground of your antenna, blowing any active devices connected to the trace.
If you follow the above precautions, there should be no blown devices when building the receiver.
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