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These instructions go part by part, section by section. Includes information for identifying parts, placing parts on the board, and checking your work. |

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This kit is dedicated to the "memory of Frank Tanner, ex-AB7CK (SK)", who inspired me to keep building and inventing. He never read any instructions for any kit and would refuse to do so even if he got in a tight spot. Frank considered it a challenge to build a kit without any help. In his memory, the silkscreen was designed so that one could build the kit just by following silk screen instructions. You should have a good knowledge of receiver theory and built one or two receiver kits so you know what is going on with the board. But if you insist, careful study of the board and taking your time will do the trick. Even with this information, please read the half page to keep from making any stupid mistakes, blowing any static sensitive parts, and a couple of hints on speeding up construction. |

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Board 1 is the board with all the front end sections of the receiver - VFO and Amps, TV & FM Filter and Bandpass Filters, First mixer, Post-mixer Amp and Xtal Filter. Board 2 is the tail end of the receiver - Second Mixer, Crystal Oscillator, 455 IF Strip, BFO and amp, product detector, and the Audio Amplifiers. The boards are intentionally large to help construction. Lots of ground plane area and plenty of room between individual circuits makes a receiver that is easy to build and modify. One of the Amateur Radio traditions is that of constantly improving, testing, and modifying everything you get your hands on. Every effort was made to encourage this effort with large board size, definite breaks between different circuits, wide circuit traces, enlarged soldering pads, slightly enlarged hole sizes, and plenty of ground plane area. The philosophy behind the project was to help a builder get the receiver working, with the help of the LEDs. Better circuits do not have the option of LED testing, so making one change at a time to improve the receiver is much easier, and hopefully, encourages the builder to study receiver circuits and try them out. I would like to say, however, that this receiver is very good as it stands, and only those circuits that claim the ultimate in performance will make the receiver perform better. Getting the receiver working and having fun with it is only the first step, anyone can take the receiver to whatever level they want to explore. When building a receiver of this complexity, with an audience that has very little test equipment, self diagnosis of the receiver was a very high priority. Every LED on the board tests circuit functions. It is like having a built in oscilloscope. In all the amplifiers, the LED is in the drain/source circuit of the MOSFET, showing the current flowing in that amplifier. If improper current is flowing through the MOSFET, it is quickly observed by the LED. The Mixer LED brightness is a direct indication of oscillator drive, and automatically tests the output of the oscillators and the mixer circuit readiness. The building process is a little different from other kits, in that all the parts are installed and then the receiver is fired up to see if all the LEDs are on and working properly. An LED that is not on, or barely on, will indicate bad/missed soldering joints, improper part locations, or a bad active device. The only sections not covered by the LEDs are the Input Board (TV & FM Filter, RF Amplifier, and Bandpass Filters), the Crystal Filters, and the Audio Amplifiers. LEDs at the Bandpass Filters and the Crystal Filters indicate which one is active for operator convenience. |
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