Preparation/Installation of the Relay

Removing the Case

Removing the case

Pull on the pliers while holding the short sides of the relay. It helps a little to push in on the short ends. Be sure to attach the pliers to one of the switching pins, on the side where only two pins are located. If one of these pins break off no harm will be done. Braking off one the coil pins, located on the side where there are three pins, will make it difficult to use the relay.

Removing the Switching Pins

Pull away from the relay with the pliers
with a little more pressure towards the contacts (top of relay).
The metal switching piece will slip out of the relay with little trouble.
Working the pliers slightly up and down will also help.

Removing the second switch pin. Picture shows pin half way removed.

Grip the plastic contact holder on one side and
break it off with a downward motion.
Does not take a lot of effort.

This picture shows the contact holder breaking off.
Pull outward with the pliers to complete the break.

Picture shows the pliers griping the second contact holder
ready to bend down to break the plastic piece off.

What the relay looks like after the switching pins
and contact holders have been broken off.

Back to Frequency Stabilizer Construction - Relay Modifications and Mounting

Removing the Armature

Pull the armature up and over the armature holder.
If you bend one of the ends,
use the pliers to straighten the end back up.

Pull the armature up and over away from the relay.

One up and down motion with the armature
should break it off the armature holder.
Picture shows the pieces.
Relay is now ready to use.

Back to Frequency Stabilizer Construction - Relay Modifications and Mounting

Mounting the Relay

stablilizer toroid

The picture shows the "high inductance spot" used to extend the range of the relay. This toroid has 17 turns (and #20 wire), so the middle turns are bunched up a little more than if 18 turns were used as noted in the instructions. Use 18 turns (and #22 or #24 wire) as noted in the instructions. (Click "Back" on browser to return)

Solder the ground wire for the relay in the hole noted "Gnd". If the other ground holes are used the ground wire would be too close to the toroid and may affect stability. Use the larger hole marked "Hole for Stabilizer Wire" to run the wire from the stabilizer to the relay. If you do not use a screw/nut/rubber grommet to mount the toroid, but use a plastic tie wrap instead, use the hole marked "Use for Tie Wrap" to hold down the toroid.

Relay mounted on Toroid

This picture shows how the relay is mounted above the "high inductance spot" on the toroid. The magnetism flows around the circumference of the toroid, not across the toroid. Note the "U shaped" armature holder that helps get the magnetism of the relay closer to the toroid.

Picture of final mounting

The final mounting of the relay, showing the ground and stabilizer wire, held down with wax. The entire toroid should be covered with wax to obtain the best stability.

The coil pins are the larger ones near the sides of the relay. The center pin is the armature pin and may be broken off.

Solder the ground wire to the PCB first, then solder the other end to the relay. Use the ground wire to hold the relay while wax is applied to the relay and toroid.

After the wax has cooled, poke a hole in the larger hole for the stabilizer wire, if it was covered up with wax, and solder to the other coil terminal of the relay.

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Last Update: 10/14/2003
Web Author: David White, WN5Y